Jane Lythell: I Am Writing

Saturday, 9 August 2014

Outdoor Pool Pleasures by Amelia Trevette



July transformed London into a tropical metropolis with an unprecedented heat wave and scorching days topping 30◦C. With predicted heavy rain forecast throughout August we have to ask is summer now over? I’m already reminiscing over last month’s visits to North London’s best outdoor swimming pools.

Parliament Hill Lido

The Grade II Art Deco pool at Parliament Hill Lido on Gordon House Road, in Hampstead Heath is a decent size at 60 metres and is open the whole year round. There’s a 7am-9am swim slot for the early risers and 10am-6pm for a day swim. On Monday, Thursday and Friday the pool is also open for adults only from 6.45pm -8pm, a good option for those willing to brave the cooler slot and to escape the inevitable belly flops and diving competitions that the school holiday months inevitably bring.

The relatively recent addition of a stainless steel lining adds a tempting shimmer to the water, luring you in to take a dip. Keep in mind though it is notoriously cold and lives up to its reputation. There is plenty of room for sunbathers poolside, although little options for shade. However there is a café you can cool down in which sells refreshments.

Dip Tip? Save your coins and pop by Ristorante Rosella on Highgate Road, a short walk from the Lido, to pick up on ice-cream en route. The homemade mango sorbet is subtle and refreshing, and light enough so you don’t need a long wait before stripping down to your swimwear.

For pure chlorine-free, back to nature swimming no outdoor bathing brings me more joy than Hampstead Heath’s Ponds, in particular, the ladies’ ponds, on the East side towards Highgate. 

Hampstead Ladies' Pond


These ponds can be accessed via a secluded path on the Heath and are open all year round, from 7am – 8.30pm during the summer, with the times varying over the winter months. The ladies’ pond is the highest up the hill, and benefits from being the closest to the natural springs in Kenwood and therefore has by far the cleanest water of all three of the Hampstead Swimming Ponds. One for the girls.


There is no denying the water is deep and murky, but be brave, it’s worth the plunge to experience the sense of tranquillity that comes from swimming within the lush green confinements of the Heath’s trees. It’s a Wind in the Willows experience, complete with accompanying aquatic life. Do prepare yourself for the initial dip. It’s a shock to the system even after a long sunbathing stint and you’ll feel the cold knock the air from your lungs before you can truly relish the peace of the pond.

Topless sunbathing has been approved since 1976 so whip off your bikini top and let it dry in the warmth of the neighbouring meadow overlooking the water. There’s a gratifying sense of acceptance and unity amongst the women at the Ponds, who are all different ages, and that’s a valuable find in the city.

A proposed dam-building project, planned from 2014 to protect local homes from an unlikely risk of flooding puts the ponds at risk of closure. However here’s hoping these works do not get approved as over 10,000 people said no to the planned works!

Dip Tip? Hide your picnic items well while you swim. The ducks that meander through the meadow are in search of nibbles, and I’ve twice overheard stories of women returning from a dip to find their lunch half eaten and a trail of crumbs left pityingly in its wake.

A final recommendation for those willing to travel for their dip, Pells Pool is England’s oldest documented freshwater lido, and can be found in picturesque Lewes in East Sussex.


Pells Pool Lewes, East Sussex

Celebrating their 150th anniversary in 2011, Pells is a spring-fed gem with facilities including a sun terrace; picnic lawn and café plus pop-up stall selling homemade cakes. I even picked up a t-shirt on my visit there, with a summer washed watercolour illustration of Pells Pool for a steal at five pounds. I plan on wearing this next summer while hunting out new Outdoor Swimming spots. Weather permitting. This is England after all.

I am on Twitter @ameliatrevette

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